How to Zero an Air Rifle (Beginner-Friendly Step-by-Step)

If your pellets are landing consistently to the left of where you’re aiming, or grouping an inch low at 25 yards, your rifle isn’t broken — it just needs zeroing. Zeroing is the process of adjusting your sights so that your point of aim and your point of impact meet at a chosen distance. To achieve this, it's important to align the crosshair or reticle of your scope with the actual point of impact on the target, making careful adjustments to the angle of the scope until both are matched. Every air rifle needs to be zeroed before it can be shot accurately, and every shooter will need to zero theirs differently, because the way you hold and mount the rifle will be unique to you.

This guide walks through the process from start to finish in plain language. Whether you’re shooting with a scope or open sights, using a spring-piston rifle or a PCP, the fundamentals are the same. Before you begin, always ensure safety by confirming you have a safe shooting environment and are following proper handling procedures. If you are unsure of where your scope is currently pointing, start at a close distance to establish a safe and effective baseline.

What Zeroing Actually Does

An air rifle pellet does not travel in a straight line. From the moment it leaves the barrel, gravity acts on it, pulling it downward in a curved arc. The scope or iron sights sit above the barrel, which means the line of sight and the path of the pellet start at slightly different angles. Zeroing brings these two lines together so they intersect at a specific distance — your zero distance. The calibre of your air rifle, such as .177 or .22, affects the pellet's trajectory and influences your choice of zero distance, as different calibres have varying levels of pellet drop and accuracy at different ranges.

Once zeroed at, say, 25 yards, your pellet will hit exactly where your crosshairs are pointing at that distance. A flatter trajectory means there is less pellet drop over distance, making it easier to maintain accuracy at various ranges. Closer than 25 yards, it will hit slightly low (the pellet hasn’t yet risen to meet the line of sight). Further than 25 yards, it will hit progressively lower as gravity pulls it down beyond the intersection point. The relation between your shot group and the crosshair is key to understanding and adjusting for pellet drop. Understanding this arc is the foundation of accurate shooting at any range.

What You’ll Need Before You Start

Before beginning the zeroing process, make sure you have the following:

Your air rifle with scope or sights is correctly mounted

A consistent supply of the same pellet — do not mix pellet types or brands during zeroing

A solid shooting rest, sandbags, or a bipod to eliminate as much shooter movement as possible

Paper targets with a clear, visible bullseye or grid pattern

A safe backstop behind the target capable of stopping pellets

A tape measure to confirm your shooting distance accurately

A small flathead screwdriver if your scope turrets require one

Before you start zeroing, it's a good idea to test your setup by firing a few shots to ensure everything is functioning correctly and your equipment is reliable.

One point on pellets that is worth emphasising: the pellet you zero with must be the pellet you shoot with. Different pellets of different weights and head sizes will produce different points of impact, even from the same rifle at the same distance. Choose your pellet first, zero with it, and stick to it.

This post serves as a step-by-step guide to help shooters through the zeroing process.

Understanding Scope Features

Understanding the features of your air rifle scope is essential for achieving accurate shooting at any distance. Most air rifles are equipped with scopes that offer a range of features designed to help you make precise adjustments and compensate for pellet drop at different distances. One of the most important features is the adjustable objective (AO), which allows you to focus the scope sharply at various ranges and eliminate parallax error—a common source of missed shots in airgun shooting, especially at closer distances. By ensuring your target and reticle are both in sharp focus, you reduce the chance of aiming errors and improve your overall accuracy.

Another key feature to be aware of is the type of reticle your rifle scope uses. Some scopes offer illuminated reticles, which can be helpful in low-light conditions, but for zeroing purposes, it’s best to use a non-illuminated setting to avoid any visibility issues. The focal plane of your scope also plays a crucial role in making adjustments. First focal plane (FFP) scopes change the size of the reticle as you adjust magnification, which means your holdover marks remain accurate at any zoom level—ideal for compensating for pellet drop at different distances. In contrast, second focal plane (SFP) scopes keep the reticle size fixed, so you’ll need to manually adjust your holdover when changing magnification.

Knowing how to use these features is crucial for making precise adjustments and achieving a properly zeroed air rifle. Take the time to familiarise yourself with your scope’s controls and settings, and practice making adjustments for focus, windage, and elevation. This understanding will help you minimise error, maintain accuracy, and get the most out of your airgun at any range.

Choosing Your Zero Distance

For most sub-12 ft/lb air rifles used in the UK, a zero distance of 20 to 30 yards is the practical standard. The right choice within that range depends on what you intend to do with the rifle.

If you are shooting targets in a garden or on a range at a fixed distance, zero for that distance. If you are using the rifle for pest control across varying ranges, 25 yards is a sensible all-round zero for .177, allowing you to hold on for most shots between 15 and 35 yards with minimal adjustment. A .22 at sub-12 ft/lb drops more steeply, so a slightly shorter zero of 20 to 25 yards is often preferred to keep holdover manageable at typical field distances.

Beginners are advised to start the zeroing process at 10 yards, regardless of their intended final zero distance. At 10 yards, it is almost impossible to miss the target entirely, which means you can find your point of impact quickly and begin making meaningful adjustments before moving back to your chosen distance.

Step-by-Step: How to Zero Your Air Rifle

Step 1: Establish a Stable Shooting Position

Human error is the enemy of zeroing. The goal is to remove as much shooter variability as possible so that what you see on the target reflects the rifle’s true behaviour, not a flinch or an inconsistent hold. Use a bench rest, sandbags, or a bipod to support the rifle. If you are shooting prone, use a rest under the forend. The rifle should sit in the same position for every shot.

Do not support the rifle on a hard surface directly under the barrel or action on a spring-piston rifle — this will affect the recoil cycle and give you inconsistent results. Use a soft support such as a bag or folded jacket under the forend instead.

Step 2: Set Up at 10 Yards and Fire a Three-Shot Group

Place your target at 10 yards. Aim at the centre of the bullseye and fire three shots, maintaining the same hold and aim point for each. Do not adjust between shots. The goal here is not to hit the bullseye — it is to see where the rifle is currently shooting relative to where you are aiming.

Once you have fired three shots, examine the target. Ignore any obvious fliers caused by flinching or disturbed aim. Look at where the group has formed. Measure the distance from the centre of the group to your aim point, both vertically (elevation) and horizontally (windage). Write these numbers down.

Step 3: Adjust the Scope

Most scopes have two adjustment turrets: one on top for elevation (up and down) and one on the side for windage (left and right). Each click of the turret moves the point of impact by a specified amount — usually 1/4 inch (or 1/4 MOA) at 100 yards, which is the standard marked on most airgun scopes.

Because you are zeroing at 10 yards rather than 100, you need to scale your adjustments accordingly. At 10 yards, one click moves the point of impact by 1/40th of an inch — so if your group is 1 inch high at 10 yards, you need 40 clicks of downward elevation adjustment to bring it to your aim point. The maths is straightforward: measure your offset in inches, multiply by 4 to get the number of clicks per inch at 100 yards, then multiply again by the ratio of 100 to your actual distance.

Work on one axis at a time. Correct elevation first, then windage. Make your adjustments, then fire another three-shot group to confirm the shift before making further changes.

Step 4: Move to Your Chosen Zero Distance

Once your shots are grouping close to the aim point at 10 yards, move the target out to your chosen zero distance — typically 20 to 30 yards. Fire another three-shot group, assess the result, and make any fine adjustments needed. At this range, the adjustments will be smaller and more precise.

Continue the process of shooting, assessing, and adjusting until the centre of your group consistently falls on your aim point. Take your time. It is not unusual for zeroing to take 40 to 60 pellets across several groups before the rifle is dialled in accurately.

Step 5: Confirm the Zero

Once you believe the rifle is zeroed, fire a final five-shot group, aiming at a fresh target. This confirmation group should sit cleanly over the bullseye with a tight, consistent spread. If it does, the zero is set. If there is still a consistent offset, make one final adjustment and repeat.

A useful benchmark for a well-zeroed sub-12 air rifle at 25 to 30 yards is a five-shot group that fits within a 20p coin. This is a realistic standard for a quality rifle shooting a consistent pellet from a stable rest.

Zeroing with Open Sights

Not all air rifles are fitted with a telescopic sight, and the zeroing process for open sights follows the same logic, with the adjustment mechanism differing by sight type. Most open sight systems have a rear sight that can be adjusted for elevation using a ramp or stepped system, and for windage by sliding the rear sight laterally in its housing.

The principle is identical: fire a group, assess where it lands relative to the aim point, and move the rear sight in the direction you want the point of impact to move. With open sights, adjustments are generally coarser than with a scope, and achieving the same level of precision at longer ranges is more challenging — but for shorter-range shooting, a well-zeroed open sight will serve reliably.

When to Re-Zero

A zero is not permanent. Several things can shift it and require you to repeat the process:

Changing pellet type, brand, or weight

Removing and remounting the scope

Knocking the scope or rifle during transport

Tightening or loosening the scope mounts

A significant change in shooting temperature (extreme cold can affect air pressure in PCP rifles and CO2-powered airguns)

A spring-piston rifle that has been serviced or had its mainspring replaced

It is good practice to check your zero at the start of any shooting session where precision matters, particularly before pest control work. A quick two or three shots at a known distance will confirm whether the rifle is still on zero or needs attention.

Common Zeroing Mistakes to Avoid

Rushing the process is the most common mistake beginners make. Zeroing rewards patience. Firing too many shots too quickly, changing multiple variables at once, or adjusting the scope after every single shot rather than after a confirmed group will all make the process take longer and produce a less reliable result.

A second common mistake is zeroing from an unstable position. If you zero from a bag rest but then shoot from standing or kneeling in the field, the point of impact may shift because your hold has changed. Where possible, zero in the position you most commonly shoot from, or at least be aware that a change in hold may require some compensation.

Finally, do not attempt to zero in poor conditions. Wind, even a light breeze, will push lightweight air rifle pellets off their intended path. Zeroing on a calm day — or indoors — will give you a true baseline. You can account for wind when shooting in the field once your zero is established in controlled conditions.

Understanding Holdover Once You’re Zeroed

Zeroing at one distance does not mean you can only shoot accurately at that distance. Once you understand how your pellet behaves at ranges other than your zero distance, you can compensate using holdover — adjusting your aim point above or below the target to account for the pellet’s arc. After zeroing, be sure to test your rifle at different distances to verify accuracy and understand pellet drop.

A practical way to build this knowledge is to shoot your zeroed rifle at a range of distances — 10, 20, 25, 30, 35, and 40 yards — and note where the pellet lands relative to your aim point at each. Many experienced shooters record these figures on a small card kept in their scope cap for quick reference in the field. Over time, this becomes instinctive, and you will find yourself naturally compensating for range without consciously thinking about it.

Zeroing an air rifle is one of the most important skills you will develop as a shooter. Done properly, it transforms a rifle that sprays shots unpredictably into a precise tool that performs exactly where you point it. Take the time to do it right, and it will pay dividends every time you shoot.

Conclusion and Best Practices

In conclusion, zeroing your air rifle scope is a crucial step in achieving accurate shooting and consistent results. By following the step-by-step process outlined in this guide, you can ensure your air rifle is properly zeroed and ready for any shooting scenario. Always use the same pellets and aim point throughout the zeroing process, and make your adjustments at a reasonable distance that matches your intended use. Most air rifles require a properly zeroed scope to reliably hit the intended point of impact, and understanding pellet drop and trajectory is key to making accurate shots at different distances.

When making adjustments, remember to compensate for factors such as windage and elevation, and use a bipod or bench rest to minimise movement and maintain accuracy. Keeping a record of your rifle scope settings and pellet choice can help you repeat your zero at different distances and quickly return to your preferred setup. For example, noting your adjustments and results after each session allows you to track what works best for your rifle and shooting style.

Similarly, joining an airgun community or seeking advice from experienced shooters can provide valuable insights and tips for improving your skills. Practice is essential—spend time at the range, experiment with different distances, and focus on maintaining a consistent aim point and shooting form. By following these best practices and staying patient, you’ll build confidence and accuracy with your air rifle.

Ultimately, the key to accurate shooting is a combination of a properly zeroed air rifle scope, a solid understanding of your equipment, and regular, focused practice. With these essentials in place, you’ll be well on your way to becoming a proficient and confident air rifle shooter, ready to enjoy the sport to its fullest.